I wanted to make sure I paid special attention to anything that would bother people the most, which is NVH. Installation Note: Make sure that you use anti-seize on the bolts during installation. The reason for this is simply because my steering rack is now centered, it was not centered (going back to the play in the bushing sleeve and the bolt) when the factory put it together. Like Sithspawn, my car does need an alignment after installing the bushings. The only things I did differently was that I used a two-jaw puller (swing arm design) as seen below:Īlso I just used some dish soap to lubricate the o-rings for installation. Installation DIY by Sithspawn is located here: The cons are an increase in NVH (basically feeling more through the steering wheel). The pros of a design like this is that you feel more through the steering wheel than you would with the OEM bushings and the car responds quicker to steering input.
TiC instead uses solid bushings made of Aluminum with rubber o-rings around them and bolts that fit in the bushings perfectly without any play. The reason for the soft rubber, etc is to reduce NVH. The problem with the OEM bushings is two-fold: 1) They consist of a VERY SOFT rubber which is grooved providing lots of space for the bushing to move around and 2) The bolts holding the bushings to the subframe are smaller (by ~2mm) than the metal sleeve in the middle of the bushing. The OEM bushings are soft rubber pressed around a metal sleeve and then pressed into the rack. These TiC SR bushings replace the factory Subaru/Toyota SR bushings and are designed to remove play from the rack's mount.
0 kommentar(er)
